Kreuzberg is really two districts sharing one name: loud, Turkish, late-night SO36 in the east, and leafy, café-slow Bergmannkiez in the west. Here is what to see and eat in each half, whether it is safe, and which side fits your day.

You land expecting street art everywhere, then barely see a spray can around Museum Island. Berlin's best murals and graffiti sit a short train ride out, and almost all of it is free. Here is where to actually find it, from the courtyard five minutes off my tour to the Cold War ruin covered in art.

Same market hall, completely different day. A local guide to Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg: when Street Food Thursday runs, which day has the Big Market, and why you should never turn up on a Sunday.