Friedrichshain is the young, unpolished east-side Berlin that most first-time visitors miss. Here is how to visit it: the East Side Gallery, RAW-Gelände, the Boxhagener Platz markets, Volkspark Friedrichshain and Karl-Marx-Allee.

You land expecting street art everywhere, then barely see a spray can around Museum Island. Berlin's best murals and graffiti sit a short train ride out, and almost all of it is free. Here is where to actually find it, from the courtyard five minutes off my tour to the Cold War ruin covered in art.