Behind the facades around Hackescher Markt, Berlin hides a second layer: connected inner courtyards, the Höfe, that most visitors walk straight past. Here is which passages to step into and in what order, from the tiled Hackesche Höfe to a street-art courtyard, a rose garden and a hand-made candy workshop, all within a ten-minute walk.

Is Berlin walkable? The central sights are far closer than the map suggests, and flat underfoot. Here is how far apart they really are, the one walk to do on foot, and when to take the train instead.